Jatiluwih Rice Terraces and Tales from Ubud’s Surroundings

While based in Ubud, we decided to venture northwest for a day trip to explore more of Bali’s rural treasures. Our main destination: the Jatiluwih Rice Terraces, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, known for its expansive, cinematic beauty.

These rice terraces are smack bang in the centre of the island—well away from the lazy tourist trail. This remote location keeps the crowds light and the experience far more authentic. The drive itself was an adventure—twisting roads, mist-covered hills, and the ever-present possibility of a sudden downpour. We were hopeful for a clear view of Gunung Batukau, the dormant volcano that looms in the distance, but the clouds had other plans. Still, the base of the volcano peeked through, giving the landscape an eerie, moody atmosphere we ended up loving.

We found a cozy café overlooking the terraces and watched farmers work the fields while sipping cold coffees. There’s something meditative about just watching the world go by here. Later, we took a leisurely walk through the fields, marveling at the ancient subak irrigation system that still powers this area.

From there, we drove an hour further north to Handara Gate, lured in by the images floating around the internet. Sadly, it didn’t quite live up to the Instagram hype. What looks like a majestic and serene temple gate online is actually a tiny roadside photo op, complete with long queues of people waiting to nail their perfect shot. Our advice? Skip it. We lunched nearby and that experience was quite good.

On the way back to Ubud, we dropped into the Junglegold Chocolate Factory, where we learned the secrets of making dairy-free, ethically sourced chocolate. The tasting was generous (no complaints here), and the factory itself had a great vibe.

To finish the day, we wandered through the Monkey Forest—a tourist classic, but surprisingly serene. Despite all the warnings about mischievous monkeys, the residents were calm and well-behaved. We thoroughly enjoyed the walk, especially through the moss-covered temples and ancient trees.

This day reminded us how much Bali has to offer beyond the tourist traps—quiet traditions, beautiful landscapes, and small, human moments that linger far longer than any staged photo ever could.

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